Nanda Devi

Nanda Devi, the patron goddess of Uttarakhand, is who this mountain massif owes its name to. Nanda Devi at 7817 M, is the 23rd highest peak in the world and the second highest in India after Kangchenjunga, the mountain is notable for its steep features and has been likened to K2, the second-highest peak in the world, in terms of terrain and difficulty in climbing and also second in holiness to Mt Kailash, the abode of the Gods.

The peak lies inside the ‘Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve’ the area, which is closed for climbing and trekking since 1984.

Our team was blessed to have been granted, a one-time permit to study the effects of isolation from human activities on the flora and fauna of the reserve and to climb the peak.

We were a team of about 30 including six scientists from renowned scientific institution of the country.



Nanda Devi was first climbed in 1934 and since then only 40 people including five from our expedition, have been blessed to reach the top of Nanda Devi main peak.
I am particularly blessed to be one amongst the lucky 40 to have climbed the peak and being still alive.

Nanda devi is served by only one entry point – a high altitude track leading from the bugyals of Lata Khadak and Belta Khadak, on the outer slope of the watershed in the west, across a precarious track to the Dharansi pass and to the first campsite – a picturesque vale called Dibrughetta. A pioneering effort to enter the sanctuary by Dharansi pass was found unsuitable due to being snowbound and impenetrable in late April forcing the expedition to enter the sanctuary through the seemingly impenetrable Rishiganga gorge.

There is no perceptible path through the gorge and we had to make improvised bridges to cross the Rishiganga river five times before we hit the traditional trail at Dibrughetta.

It took us nearly one month to go through the Rishi ganga gorge to reach the base camp ahead of last camp at Sarson Patal through Swarg Sidi (Ladder to Heaven), a razor-thin path skirting steep cliffs over deep gorges which had just enough space to place your boot and where fixed rope and pitons had to be placed for us to climb.

This lethal path is one of the most dangerous spots in the Himalayas. However, we felt the Goddess’ favour on a number of occasions. No matter how carefully you traverse, a slip on rubble or overbalancing while crossing a bush protruding from the rock-face may become a headlong descent into a turbulent river deep below. Yet each time, there was a timely hand of support or jerk of the rope or an ice axe extended in anticipation and our large column of mountaineers and porters climbed the stairway to heaven safely.

The base camp was reached and camps established smoothly. The establishment of camps and upward ascent began smoothly and on 13 Jun at 0320 hrs, the summit team was poised at Camp IV for the attempt on the summit. The Goddess gave the team one shot at success and they set off at and climbed the peak at 1710 hrs on 13 June 1993.When we reached the top, it was completely white bound.

We could not see the mountains all around us. We planted the flag, thanked the Goddess, took photographs and immediately began our descent back while the weather was good. We reached back only at 2330 hrs after a non-stop climb of 20 hrs.

This was the most memorable climb of my life and consider myself blessed to have climbed the peak and came back safely (almost- except chilblains).